Depends on your coloring? Not necessarily. Everybody looks good in navy blue. The question becomes one of which shirt to wear and what tie to choose to set off your beaming face.
Grey seems more patrician, although I have no evidence to back it up. And at one point if a man owned only one suit, chances are it was navy serge.
Of course we’re speaking of worsted fabrics. Woolens, tweeds, flannels of all sorts are inherently more casual and that’s a different post.
Think instead of your coloring. If you look best in blue shirts, a grey suit will set them off better. If white is your go-to, the blue suit is a natural choice and presents to the world a dark column relieved by a sober tie.
Then too, we have the question of your wardrobe of ties. Do you favour ties with a primarily blue background?
What about shoes? Browns in suede and polished calf look fine with greys. Oxblood and black are the choices for navy.
Either suit is …. errr … suitable for business and all but semi-formal and formal affairs. Earth tones, lighter blues and greys. That’s where the fun begins.
So are you a blue or grey?
Personally, I prefer grey for a couple of reasons – First, grey comes in a much wider variety of shades, from very light all the way to a dark charcoal or almost black. Second, grey can be worn with lots of different shoe colors – almost any shade of brown, black, and oxblood. Navy suits on the other hand really look best with either oxblood or mid brown shoes. Black shoes really don’t look very good with Navy and, during the day, navy suits can look a little too severe in all but the most formal corporate environments.
I think, both shirts are wrong for business. Checked shirts are best for smart casual and in combination with Tweed.
The pinstripe suit demands a plain white or plain light blue shirt (maybe with a contrasting collar). A knit tie is more for sports jackets, not for (business) power suits. I would go for a solid dark navy tie.
Same with the light grey suit. Choose a plain white shirt and go for a plain white pocket square.
As both looks should talk business, black oxfords are the only option. Wear brown and oxblood for sports jackets and Tweed. Or if you’re in Italy.
I really like your other outfits, but I’m sorry to say, that especially the first look is so wrong.
Best,
Mike
Hi Mike, I hadn’t intended the styling to reflect business wear on The Street or in banking or one of the more conservative arenas. Those happened to be photos I had of a navy suit and a grey suit. I agree that I break all kinds of rules. I’m in a creative industry. That I wear a suit at all sets me apart and I’m allowed to have more fun with it. “Wrong” is for people who don’t know they’re breaking rules. Just my two cents. Thanks for the comment.
Sybarite. I’m on GoodReads. At the moment I’m reading “The Looming Towers: Al-Queda and the Road to 9/11” by L. Wright and “Back to Blood” by T. Wolfe.
Robert, grey is always more interesting to my eye, too.
Great suits and ties, but personally I don’t like my tie to be darker than me jacket,
Herts, interesting. to suit your hair/eye colour? I’m just curious, as my imagination jumps to grey suits and ties.
Hi Sir,
I understand this is a reply column meant for comments, but I would like your advice on choosing the color of a suit based on my skin tone, suitable for both formal like job interview and informal occasions like brother’s wedding.
As you previously mentioned, both blue and grey would work. I have a wheatish complexion, not too dark, and I am a 5’11” Indian man. I will be purchasing the fabric and having the suit tailored. Since I’m customizing only one three-piece suit, could you please suggest the best color for the suit, along with recommendations for the shirt, shoes, and tie?
Hello Mr. Singh, Thank you for asking.Without a photo of you, I’m reluctant to recommend one over the other based on your skin tone and hair color, etc. When I was younger I wore darker colors because of my high contrast hair and skin tones. As I’ve aged and my hair has turned more grey, I wear more medium grey and slightly lighter blue. That said, if I had to buy just one suit, it would be navy blue. Suitable for all occasions. For a formal business situation, a white medium-spread collar shirt is always appropriate (also for a wedding, perhaps without a tie!)
The choice of tie is up to you. Darker is always more formal, but a good woven gold tone with a small discreet pattern would be lovely and might lead the eye to your face, given your skin tone. If I had to choose only one tie to live with forever, it would be a navy grenadine (Sam Hober does fantastic grenadines.)
As for shoes, the most formal are well-polished black oxfords with or without a toe cap. A dark brown suede would work well, but isn’t as “serious” seeming, although the Italians (and I) love them for the look. If I had to live with just one shoe, I would choose a tassel-loafer slip-on in black since it can be worn with odd trousers and suits. A pair of very good value shoes can be found at either Meermin or Beckett Simonon, especially when investing in a pair of wholecuts.
I hope that helps. I bet you’ll look magnificent regardless of your final choice.
Sir,
Thank you for the detailed response and the great advice! Your recommendations on suit color and the reasoning behind it make a lot of sense. Navy blue does seem like a versatile and timeless choice. I also appreciate the tip on tie selection and how it can complement my skin tone.
Given that I’m 24 years old with a wheatish complexion, black hair, and 5’11” in height, what would be your second-best suit color recommendation after navy blue? Since I’m starting my MBA and need a formal suit for my career, I’d appreciate your thoughts on a versatile alternative. Plus, I already own a blue suit (not navy blue). Given that, what would be your second-best suit color recommendation?
Hi!
A grey suit — medium to charcoal grey — is a timeless and elegant choice. It’s also great for the “I need to own the room” vibe. White French-cuffed shirt, dark woven tie, white linen pocket square, black polished shoe. Darker charcoal is more formal, but a good medium grey will serve you well, too. Perhaps in a sharkskin or herringbone. The advantage to a grey suit is that you can split out the trouser to wear with a blue blazer.