Make an appointment with his barber. I’m going Tuesday.

There are any number of haircuts that we are allowed these days. This one would work a little better on me if I were a silver-maned millionaire with a St. Tropez tan.

Maybe next year. In the meantime it’s more “Cary Grant” and less “Jim Carrey” for me.

I’ll opt instead for a shorter back and sides while maintaining the length on top (for the most part.) At least that’s the plan today. Tomorrow is the acid test.

The classic short sides and back is timeless. You may choose to wear your hair longer (like Tod’s founder Diego Della Valle) or shaved into a sort of all around five o’clock shadow to match your stubble (Jason Statham does this well. See his turn as “Handsome Rob” in “The Italian Job.”) But on the whole I’ve decided that I prefer to avoid making a statement with my hair. Like the suit that wears you and gets all the attention, a hairstyle that stands out shifts focus from your face to the top of your head. My attitude will change as I get older, I’m sure.

I like to think of this as my “North by Northwest” suit. It’s a close approximation and certainly as close as I’ll ever get to aping Mr. Grant; should I have had the chance to stand in his proximity, the comparison to a dancing chimpanzee would have been unavoidable. Call me Cheetah.

But back to the suit. It’s an Oxxford make and is an example of a lighter weight fabric with a very subtle pattern (a windowpane overlay in darker grey and there is a faint light blue stripe that shadows it) that I think looks best with a crisp white, spread collar shirt (this one is an open weave that lets the air through) and a tonal grey (Prince of Wales) tie. A French (double) cuffed shirt and silver cuff links would dress this up even more. I should have worn my black captoes with it (and would if I were wearing the cufflinks), but swung to the dark brown suede plain toes instead. Serious enough for a Monday, lightweight enough for an 80ºF day.

If, as is claimed by some, making a conscious effort at being happy, cheerful, optimistic, etc. will actually change your outlook, this is a good place to start. Wear and look your best on Monday.

Don't Panic....

The white linen suit and odd trousers are getting ready to be drycleaned and stored for the duration. The spectator shoes have been relegated to the higher shelves. The seersucker and madras trousers are pressed and waiting to be swapped with the heavier woolen ones that haven’t quite made it down from the topmost hanging bar in the closet. It is September, that mixed month of cool nights and warm days.

Did I just write warm? Today the mercury will register 91ºF, if the predictions come true. It is hot enough for you? It is for me. And that presents a unique problem when one is overly concerned with the trivialities of elegant dressing. For what items of clothing will one reach given the fluctuating temperatures during these post-Labor Day weeks?

Here is where I break with tradition. If it is hot enough to require air-conditioning, it is hot enough to continue to take advantage of summer weight fabrics.

During the day, I continue to wear linen trousers and lightweight sportscoats. For the most part, I stick to darker colours, though. Navy linen trousers, or black for evenings. Patterned cotton trousers in shades of cream and brown, black and tan, black and white and plain old lightweight khakis (”chinos”) do nicely in this weather. Most often I pair them with a white, very light blue or pale pink shirt. The coats are navy blazers (single-breasted), or wheat with a light blue overplaid, or dark brown Prince of Wales check.

But what about those days which require something more formal? I am not so fortunate to own a suit made of fresco — an open weave wool which allows air to circulate and cool. But I do have a couple of lightweight and lighter coloured wool suits the jackets of which are half lined. At roughly 7 1/2 oz., they are as flimsy as a politician’s excuses for accepting certain campaign contributions. Wool, is a natural wicking agent and can be quite comfortable during these days. The trick is to let your clothing rest a day or two after having worn it, preferably in a place where it can catch the breezes and air out a bit.

Footwear doesn’t change that much. Socks are lightweight wools or cotton. I like to wear unlined suede shoes, which breathe well and are unexpected as most people think of suede for Fall use only.

Add a lightweight scarf or linen sweater for evening and you’re ready for anything.

Being well dressed requires a constant commitment to trying to be well-dressed. Eternal vigilance is the price to pay. Yes, it’s a challenge, but with a bit of forethought, careful editing and commitment, you’ll stay ahead of the game.

Does all this mean that you should cease and desist? Not at all. In fact, I think that if you made all white your signature look (especially for my women readers. We already have Tom Wolfe… ), it can work in your favour. (Well, maybe not white shoes worn all the time. And that would mean handbags that match…) As long as your clothing is in good repair, fits beautifully and is well-cut for your figure, you will be putting your best foot forward.

Or, in other words, keep fighting the good fight.

A hastily shot photo whilst rushing out the door in post-Labor Day linen trousers

Mr. Maier has it right, there is casual and there is casual.

The problem with menswear today is that it rocks. I should say “It ROCKS!” As in “Dude, you are really rocking that suit.”

Yeah…

Now I, like Donny Osmond, admit to being a little bit rock and roll. But since I am no longer a skinny teenager, I find that I no longer want to look the part. And I know that you wouldn’t want to have such a sight inflicted upon you.

At one point, even rockers wore sharply cut suits and ties. They were working it like a job, as the saying goes. The Beatles, with their long hair, skinny suits and Chelsea boots were seriously conservative compared with the spandex and shredded denim crowd that they would spawn. Mick Jagger was a Savile Row customer. Me? Despite the 30 minutes that I spent being a punk rocker, my look was more akin to The Style Council new mod. At least that’s what I hoped.

But what I’m driving at is the quest for eternal youth embodied by the 30+ year old “rockin’ ” his two day beard, slim suit, skinny tie, and … sneakers. It’s not cutting edge; it’s been done. Everyone plays around with the suit. The college kids did it after the war… WWI…. when they rebelled against Victorian restraint. But they looked pretty good doing it. The sack suit was our answer to the London cut. All loungey, unshaped comfort. The pendulum swung again… and again. You needn’t go to awning striped and piped blazers, nor do you need to go for the black suit, black shirt, etc. look so popular in Hollywood. You should pay attention to how your clothes will look in five years. Suitably elegant? Keep it. Hopelessly outdated? Hold on to it and sell it on eBay when it becomes ironic. In my wardrobe I have things made this season and things made for Mrs. E.’s grandfather. They sit side by side very comfortably. To stay fashionable, simply stay discreetly elegant.

“Hey, how come we wear trousers and he wears leotards?” Dean Martin questions Sammy Davis, Jr.’s seriously slim fitting suit.

I’m not suggesting that you forgo comfort. Look at the Bottega Veneta collection above, I have more constricting pyjamas. Sure, it’s a “Charlie Chaplin” silhouette with a fitted jacket, looser trouser and sturdy shoe. Armani draws on the same inspiration, as did Ralph Lauren: the 1920’s and 30’s. Because that was the epitome of male elegance. Take the lessons learned and apply them to every article of clothing that you purchase or commission. Does it make you look good and is it timeless? Well-cut, well-fitted, comfortable clothing appropriate for your age will never age you. You will always look well-dressed and elegant.

Take for example the following two celebrities.

Jude Law (a Kilgour man. Image Alan Davidson for the Daily Mail) may make some mistakes, but on the whole…

Steven Tyler (People Magazine. Credit: Schwartzwald-Kaffe/Splash News and Pictures;Theo Wargo/WireImage)

” ‘Nuff said.”

Unless you’re a very buffed up rock star (with Charlie Watts as the obvious sartorial exception); please don’t go there. And even if you are, reconsider wearing a well-cut jacket (with long trousers, please.) It can only help.

(Image Glenn Harris for Photorazzi via exposay.com)

Thus endeth the lesson.