(Apres mois, le deluge.)
There is an excellent bit of advice posted on the also very excellent blog “The Peak of Chic” today. The subject is Bunny Williams’ advice on training your eye. It is virtualy identical to the advice given by Letitia Baldridge, who was Mrs. J.F. Kennedy’s social secretary. It boils down to this: look at more stuff.

But not just any stuff — exquisite stuff.

Learn to separate the wheat from the chaff by leafing through the major magazines on the subject with which you are fascinated.(”Q”, “Town and Country”, “The Magazine Antiques”, and “House and Garden” are a few in my stack.) Visit the very best stores, antique shops and museums in your area. And, of course, there is no shortage of on-line resources that are excellent places to begin your research.

I will also say, by way of warning, that if your interest lies in classic men’s clothing, ignore most of the magazines out there. They are concerned with fashion, not style. And fashion, after a certain age, can degenerate into costume. Just take a look at your high school pictures and try to imagine wearing that today.

Instead look to the classic films with Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, William Powell, and the rest of the pantheon. American history buff? Stop with JFK.

(photo: Henry Poole Bespoke Tailors.)
I’ve been giving some thought to this lately. There are a lot of new options for the man looking to “dress up.” Customization is the new buzz-word. And “made to measure” (su misura in Italian) is really starting to make headlines with Tom Ford’s launch of his stores, Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label and Armani’s entry into the game. Custom, Made to Measure and Bespoke are not the same thing.

In brief, here’s why.

You can customize an off-the rack suit. In fact, I would argue that simply having it properly fitted is customizing the suit to your build. Of course, you can have working button holes put into the sleeves (with contrast stitching if you prefer), take off the belt loops, add strap and buckles to trousers with an extended waistband, change buttons and have your name sewn into the lining of the jacket. This is the cheapest of the three options and will run you the cost of the services of your alterations tailor.

Half-way between ready-to-wear and bespoke sits the made-to-measure garment. I suppose that’s why the French call it demi-mesure. Here you have the choice of number of pockets, one, two or three button jackets (or double-breasted for those so inclined), flat front or pleated trousers, different fabrics, and fancy linings. Several measurements will be taken and sent out to the factory where a standard silhouette will be altered to your specifications. The suit will be sent to your store for a second try on and any final adjustments will be made. If you are not a particularly difficult fit, this is probably a good option for you to obtain a better fitting suit. A MTM suit starts around $800 and goes into the bespoke pricing levels if done by a famous designer (I believe Armani charges around $5,000.)

Finally, there is full bespoke (a gentleman once called a garment into existence by selecting the fabric. That bolt had therefore “been spoken for.”) This is a longer, more-involved process that involves a good many more measurements being taken and a lot more decisions on your part. A paper pattern will be made based on your measurements that will be yours and yours alone. It will be the pattern along which the material is cut. There will be an initial visit to work out the details of what you want and to take your measurements. Then a visit with a rough approximation of your suit (held together by very few white stitches) for you to try on. It will be chalked up and refined. There will be more fittings and more refinements and your suit will start to look like a suit, as in the picture from Henry Poole of Savile Row, above. Finally, details will be added and the button holes sewn into the sleeves at the last moment (sleeves cannot be easily shortened or lengthened once there are button holes cut into them. Some makers will leave a top hole uncut in the event that the suit is handed down and must be altered in the future.) It may take a year for you to take delivery of the final result, but it will be your suit and yours alone. It will fit you better than you thought possible. This is not an inexpensive habit, by any means. Expect to pay at least $4,000 for a two-piece suit.

This is meant to be an introduction to the options available in menswear. There are a great many resources on the web that do a much better job describing the bespoke experience and the pros and cons of ready-to-wear and made-to-measure. But a word of caution, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing to the bank account.

In “His Girl Friday” Cary Grant rails at an “insignificant, pimple-headed, square-toed spy.” I forget with whom or why he is upset, he spends half the movie ranting beautifully. But that’s neither here nor there. The quote chosen is merely a good segue into discussing a pet peeve of mine. Namely, the sartorially neglected foot.

Want to up your style quotient a notch? Then please, I beg of you, get rid of any of those clunky square-toed shoes left in your closet. I don’t mean the elegantly tapering, chisled toe Italian jobs that make your feet look very long and thin. I mean the chunky black loafer that is best suited to accompany your Frankenstein costume come Halloween.

There, don’t you feel better? Lighter? More elegant already? I hope so.

Divesting yourself of any part of your wardrobe is always a difficult first step to take. But it’s sometimes necessary. We, and I include myself here, are trying to build functional and elegant everyday wardrobes that will stand the test of time. Wardrobes that are firmly grounded in tradition, which emphasize our best features and minimize our flaws.

So on to step two. Invest in the highest quality shoes that you can afford. At least two pair, one dark brown, the other black.

If you wear suits, opt for less ornamentation, choosing a captoe or even plain toe to begin. That way you don’t have to worry about the formality of your suit and shoe matching. If you’re a sportcoat kind of guy, you have more options. I usually wear slip-ons or a monk strap with a sportcoat, wing-tips work ,too.

Find a brand that fits you the best. (Bespoke shoes are expensive, but if you can afford them, why wear anything else? I’ve only graduated to the “custom” option. Design decisions more that anything else.) Trusted names in the ready-to-wear shoe world are probably familiar to you: Santoni, Grenson, Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones (C&J), Churches, Edward Green, Gaziano Girling, Vass, Allen Edmonds, John Lobb, Alden… the list goes on and on. I have personal favorites like Sebago, Romano Martegani, Tod’s and Belgian Shoes. All have one common trait; they are all considered to be well-made (although some are considered over-priced or less stylish than others.)

Step three? Take care of them. Clean and polish your shoes regularly. They actually get better (and better looking) with age. Don’t wear the same pair two days in a row. Put the pair that you’ve just worn on a pair of cedar shoe trees to let them air out. The shoe trees will absorb perspiration while helping to retain the shape of your shoes. Resole whenever you need to.

And a last plea: please don’t wear your boat shoes (Topsiders) with anything other than jeans or shorts. Even if high school was only a short time ago.

In terms of “design,” (construction may be the better word) the last shall be first. An elegant last will make your foot look great. Check out Edward Green’s examples. More information than you probably need to start is readily available on-line. Style Forum’s thread is particualrly exhaustive and informative.