Proportion: Slimming Cuts

A traditional pairing for luncheon with friend of the blog, Greg, and a Basque dinner with Mrs. E. . I included this photo after yesterday’s DB shot to show what proportion can do for you. I’m wearing a navy Hackett suit coat that is cut a little closer and shorter than the DB, Leviner Wood custom shirt, Tie Bar knit tie, custom Martegani monk straps and (super light) Incotex trousers that are cut a lot narrower than any others I own, all of which (I think) makes me look a bit thinner and taller.

I should have taken the shot of me with my hands cupped beneath the skirt of the coat, the traditional method of checking that the length is correct. It would have shown that the coat is “too short”. The effect on my silhouette is to make my 5’8″ frame a bit taller by “showing more leg”, for lack of a better term. Is the coat too short? No, it covers the seat of my trousers.

How slim is the trouser? It is a flat front and measures about 7″ at the ankle, which is pretty slim. The final test is how the trouser sits on my shoe. I wear a US size 8.5 (about an 8UK), and the trouser, with a very slight break covers about  1/3 of the monk strap, making my foot a bit longer and slimmer (which I like), without making me look like I’m wearing drainpipe trousers and clown shoes.

At the moment, this is my favourite silhouette, as much as I admire the cuts of the past, this sleeker look is more becoming to my frame. That doesn’t mean that I’m squeezed into the clothing. Fred Astaire favoured the Scholte cut, which is very drapey, yet he never swam in his suits. In the end, it’s what works for you — cut, colour, proportion.




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