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"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of the arts."                                    Henry David Thoreau

©2009, 2010 Easy and Elegant Life. All Rights Reserved.

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Revisiting the Past

Having just finished “One Hundred Years of Menswear” (Cally Blackman) and just started “American Fashion Menswear” with superb commentary by this man, I’ve been revisiting my sartorial past when most of my aesthetic centered on the drape cut of the 1930’s. I didn’t own anything from the 1930’s, I just liked the way it looked in the illustrations and on the silver screen.

Not long ago, that look could be duplicated. BGO sold it when I was first a customer, then an employee (when it was filtered through the Italian labels). Ralph Lauren continues to reinterpret it. Alan Flusser champions the look and there are those lucky enough to bespeak it from the hallowed halls of Anderson & Sheppard and the like.

Today, however, it is hard to find an off-the-peg suit that is cut like that. Today’s look is lean, perhaps in reflection of our leaner times. Perhaps celebrating the athletic bodies of today’s young people. Perhaps the designers just needed to shift the fashions to something different.

The beauty of the British Blade or London Cut, or Drape Suit is that it is based, like a lot of successful menswear, on military lines. Scholte invented the cut after seeing how the Life Guards’ uniforms made the men look more athletic — pigeon breasted with nipped waists and strong shoulders. Thanks to the extra material over the shoulder blades and through the chest, the cut was extremely soft and comfortable to wear.

If you’re looking for that kind of a suit, your best bet these days is eBay, or a thrift shop or a vintage boutique. The custom tailored Dunhill brown chalk stripe DB came from an eBay seller. It was made in ‘98 for a stockbroker in NYC (isn’t google scary?) The tie is vintage Britches. The antique stripe shirt is Tommy Bahama via TJ Maxx and the tie bar from I don’t know where. R. Martegani custom monkstraps in an orangey-brown finish the look.

Yes, I like the reimagined late 50’s/early 60’s Mad Men/North by Northwest inspired suits so prevalent today. But in a drape suit, I feel lighter, happier and less hard edged. In a sea of the trendy, you will bob about like an elegant buoy. Not brand new and shiny, but something to cling to when the latest crazes sink beneath the waves of fashion.  There’s a lot to be said for the escapism of the Depression era.

Now and Then

The influence of the past is with us always. Books like  Cally Blackman’s “One Hundred Years of Menswear” are particularly good at tracing the evolution of the suit especially.

After a satisfying few hours with the book (a few factual errors notwithstanding), it got me thinking about my time with Britches of Georgetowne, the basis of my sartorial aesthetic and my wardrobe in general.

I’m a big fan of two decades when it comes to menswear. For those of you following closely, you will have noticed it most in my choices of eyewear. There is the Bertie Wooster/Fred Astaire/Duke of Windsor/Fellowes influence and the Cary Grant/late 50’s/Early 60’s influence. (With a stop along the way for the Mods and the Neo-Edwardians like Cecil Beaton and Bunny Rogers ca. 1954).

The difficulty has always been reconciling the two looks with the modern era. Not so much the man in the grey flannel suit who has never really gone out of fashion in the business world, but the elegant lines of the others were often in conflict with the reigning aesthetic of the day: the sack suit, for example. Enter Britches, an early adopter of the Ralph Lauren/Alan Flusser aesthetic. Suits were drapey, patterns were mixed and matched, shoes were brown and often suede. Heady stuff in the D.C. area in 1980 when I first was introduced to Mark Wilson and my tailored and forward pleated khakis that were to be a staple of my school wardrobe.

Take a look at today’s motoring wardrobe above. It was a bit cool, but I knew that I’d have the sunroof open. The tab collar, tweed jacket and Fair Isle sweater were accompanied by a tweed cap and brown leather gloves to ward off the chill coming through the open windows. A fine look, in my opinion, but a bit anachronistic for everyday wear. Venture outside and you will get looks. So, how to “update” the tab collar, brown trousers and brown shoes is the question.

Now and then, pair them with something “safe” like the perennial blue blazer. Yes, you will get comments, but the second glances will be more admiring rather than questioning. To save a day’s dress from looking too costume, always anchor your choices with a traditional, tried and true classic.

The Fryer's Roast: Stuffed Pork Loin

I’m Southern. I like fried food. As I write this I’m craving a fried fish sandwich. It’s just before 10 am. Not the best thing for the expanding middle-aged waistline and constricting middle-aged arteries. Remember when we used to hear about the President’s preferences for snack foods? Was it President Reagan, or was it President Bush who had a jar of Jelly Bellies gourmet jelly beans on his desk? Regardless, I believe it was President Clinton who professed a liking for cracklin’s, if I recall correctly. That would be fried pork rinds for the uninitiated and more Northern of y’all.

This weekend pork was on sale and I was preparing a menu for an impromptu dinner party. I could have pan fried pork chops, but we’re all of us watching our cholesterol levels. Then a half a pork loin caught my eye. Dinner for four with leftovers for the week for roughly USD$8.00, not including wine. Sold.

This is a very easy and because it involves a bit of a show when cut and plated, it can make for a more elegant presentation.

The Easy and Elegant Life Caramelized Onion Stuffed Roast Pork Loin.

1 large onion

2 cloves garlic, pressed through a garlic press

1 long branch of rosemary (about two tablespoons, maybe a bit less)

1/4 of a two day old baguette, pulverized into bread crumbs (4 cups? Maybe 5)

Salt and pepper

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 Tablespoon butter

Kitchen String

Preheat your oven to 450ºF.

Using a Cuisinart, blender or tea towel and meat tenderizer/ballpeen hammer/rolling pin/what-have-you turn the dried out baguette into bread crumbs. Set aside.

Chop (or thinly slice) the onion.

Melt the butter and add a tablespoon or so of olive oil to a large skillet over medium high heat. Sauté the onions with salt and pepper just until they brown. Add the pressed garlic and sauté for a minute more. Remove from the heat. Add the breadcrumbs and mix thoroughly. Add a bit of water if it’s too dry. (Or dry white wine, if you can spare it.) You’re making stuffing, so make it look like what you remember the consistency of stuffing to be: moist.

Butterfly the pork loin so that it spread out flat (or ask the butcher to do it). Turn over and score the thin layer of fat every 3/4″ with a very sharp knife. Flip over and spread a generous layer of stuffing down the center, right to the edges. Roll up the pork loin.

Here’s the tricky part. Using kitchen string truss the pork loin. Where I made my mistake with the one above: I didn’t use enough string, tying it with four pieces only. Use nine. Eight cut and tightly tied around the circumference, one tightly tied lengthwise. It may help to have someone tying whilst you hold the beast together.

Rub the entire roast with a mixture of olive oil and salt (Kosher or sea salt is best.) Place on a roasting rack in a pan. Roast at 450ºF for 30 minutes and turn down the oven to 400ºF. Cook for another hour or to your liking. Pork can be served just the least bit pink. The loin I cooked was in the 3 1/2 to 4 lb. range and took an hour and forty minutes to cook, and another five to cool a bit (it is still cooking some during the cooling period.)

Slice and serve sprinkled with parsley. For a side dish I served oven roasted potatoes (olive oil and salt) and a salad with a based mustard vinaigrette. Small apples can be roasted alongside the pork for the last hour of cooking. Wash them and cut them across the top third of the fruit, replacing the top (you may want to sprinkle the inside with a dash of cinnamon). Place them around the pork loin and continue cooking.

We drank a fantastic bottle (or two) of ‘08 Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir from Tasmania. It is very much a Bordeaux like mix. Mrs. E. prefers white and drank an equally well-matched Le Grand Cheneau Mâcon Verzé, unoaked Chardonnay (‘08, Burgundy).

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